Tokyo is a city known for its fast pace, technological advancement and futuristic attractions, with the city’s teamLab Borderless digital art museum alone attracting millions of visitors each year. But there’s another side to Tokyo where a love of the past still shines.
Known as ‘shitamachi’ neighbourhoods, Tokyo’s ‘retro’ towns take locals and visitors alike on a nostalgic journey, where they can eat in small style restaurants, learn ancient crafts, view traditional architecture, and shop for vintage clothes and wares.
Located to the northeast of Tokyo’s centre, the waterside town of Asakusa is regarded as the capital of shitamachi culture. Here’s how to make the most of your time there.
Stay:
Opening in 2023, OMO3 Asakusa is a local concept hotel by Japanese luxury hotel operator, Hoshino Resorts, blending the best of old and new.
The hotel’s prime position is the best example of this, just a walk away from the city’s best ancient and modern attractions. While one side of the hotel offers rooms overlooking one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist temples – Tokyo’s number one attraction, Senso-ji, rooms on the other side offer prime views to one of the world’s tallest towers, the Tokyo Skytree. See them both from OMO3 Asakusa’s rooftop lounge and grab a refreshment at the same time.
While the hotel’s design might be open and contemporary, and equipped with modern conveniences – like its 24-hour self-serve food and drink station – thoughtful traditional additions are featured throughout including shoji screens, low-lying futon beds and tatami mats in the hotel’s guest rooms, and incense offerings along with artisan tools and products displayed within the lobby.
The hotel’s ethos is also rooted in nostalgia, with guests able to participate in on site activities such as leathercraft workshops, Edo period food sessions, and traditional Japanese comedy shows, performed by a ‘rakugo’ storyteller. But OMO3 Asakusa’s best offering is its cultural tours, where an ‘OMO Ranger’ will guide you through the streets of Asakusa, introducing you to the area’s best traditional eateries, historic sites, and boutiques, engaging with local artisans and shop owners as you go.
Eat and drink:
If exploring independently, take a stroll down Nakamise Dori shopping street to snack on tasty street food such as unagi (freshwater eel) rice balls, karaage chicken, and the traditional sweet bread, melon pan.
For sit down dining, Asakusa Imahan or Chinya is where you’ll find local specialty, sukiyaki – the beef hot pot dish has been served in the area since the late 19th century. For seafood lovers, try Akasaka Fukinuki, where eel dishes have been prepared for over 100 years, or Warayakiya Akasaka where fish is grilled using an ancient Japanese technique.
For more informal eating, skip over to Hoppy Street (Hoppy Dori) where Izakaya is king. With cheap and cheerful food found here for well over half a century, the best of these post-war style eateries are Okamoto, Suzuyoshi and Tanuki.
See and do:
Aside from the area’s obvious cultural attractions, which include Senso-ji temple and Kaminari-mon Gate, Asakusa is home to Sumida Park, a riverside green space that boasts over 640 flowering cherry trees in the spring. It’s also where you’ll find an interesting collection of museums and galleries, including Edo Taito Traditional Crafts Centre where over 350 Japanese handicrafts are exhibited, and where craftsmen show visitors how to turn silver and wood.
With a fun, quirky vibe, shopping for traditional goods on Nakamise Dori and the backstreets near Senso-ji temple (known as the Asakusa Kannon Ura area) will provide hours of entertainment. Kimono and traditional dress hire shops here are popular, as is partaking in a traditional tea ceremony, riding a rickshaw, and eating at ‘ryotei’ style restaurants where dinner is often accompanied by a geisha.
Getting there:
By train, Asakusa Station is located on Tokyo Metro’s Ginza line, Toei Asakusa line and the Tobu Skytree line. Alternatively, travel there by boat with the water bus stopping at Asakusa on its way along the Sumida River.
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You can book a stay at OMO3 Asakusa here.