Zooming around by tuk-tuk on the hunt for tasty Thai treasures is one of the most immersive ways to explore Bangkok. The senses are heightened by the humidity, snippets of conversation from the other tuk-tuks and the aroma of streetside woks scorching delectable concoctions.
As my legs stick to the plastic seat of our tuk-tuk, we sit stationary in the stifling humidity on Sukhumvit Street, a main thoroughfare beating through the heart of Bangkok. Combined with the traffic fumes, I begin to regret my decision of what I thought would be a fun mode of transport. Until I spy a procession of wheelchair-bound people weaving through the traffic, and I consider myself lucky. I wonder if they’re out on a nightly jaunt, until I realise our tuk-tuk has stopped in front of a hospital.
My stomach rumbles in anticipation of Banthat Thong Road, repeatedly voted as one of Bangkok’s most vibrant eating streets in the BKK District. The precinct is perfectly positioned for hungry uni students studying at the nearby Chulalongkorn University. The array of cheap street food is endless: crustaceans from Som Som Seafood, boat noodles from Shall We Meet & Eat, fresh frog porridge from Geylang Lor 9 and streetside carts selling balut (duck embryo), durian ice cream and fruit juice pulped while you wait.
Too overwhelmed by the choices, we climb the narrow stairs to Kodo Cocktail Bar, famed for its Japanese-inspired cocktails, including a Fugu fish fin-infused gin cocktail, while overlooking the eating frenzy below. We eventually decided on a simple dish of Hainan Chicken Rice from Midnight Kai Ton, which has been serving the renowned dish since 1981, followed by Pad Thai, which does seem a little bit like cheating when surrounded by so many exotic dishes. Washed down by a refreshing flight of beer from Beer Pradith, a craft brewery serving more than 20 beers on tap, is a refreshing end to the night before retreating to our riverside suite.
Perched on the Chao Phraya River, Glow Bangkok Riverside is a relatively new addition to Bangkok’s hotel offerings since opening in November 2024. Positioned in the historic Dusit District, our spacious suite is a welcome reprieve from the city’s frenetic pace. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer prime river views, including from the bed with a plush Somphol mattress, promising cloud-like slumber. The onsite pool and Currents Café & Bar make the most of the waterfront location with Thai and Italian favourites as boats of all shapes and sizes chug by.
If you’d prefer to be in the thick of things, the refurbished NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard is centrally located and metres from the Nana BTS sky train station, from where you can reach most attractions in the city in moments without having to navigate the traffic. The large windows in the rooms and rooftop pool offer peaceful spots to witness the frenzy below until you’re ready to join in.
The next day, we’re all refreshed and on the hunt for coffee. Hearing about a specialty coffee roaster in Talat Noi, a cool neighbourhood on the edge of Chinatown, the blend of Thai and Chinese culture is depicted in its street art, decorating the decaying walls. Entering the ground floor of Mother Roastery reveals a warehouse bursting with bric-a-brac, but upstairs, they take their coffee very seriously. After plenty of shaking and pouting with all the art of a cocktail mixologist, an espresso martini wouldn’t have been out of place despite the early hour.
Tonight we leave ourselves in the hands of the food experts by tuk-tuk with Bangkok Food Tours for a kaleidoscopic night of flavours. It went something like this across multiple locations, including Chinatown and Banthat Thong Road: prawn with grapefruit (what a tasty revelation), mango sticky rice, spicy papaya salad, larb, fried chicken and crispy pancake on a stick.
Bangkok boasts dozens of restaurants and eateries that have made the Michelin Guide, and Ann Guay Tiew Kua Gai in Chinatown has been on the list for several years in a row, thanks to its namesake of the fried rice noodle dish called guay tiew kua gai. Cooked over an open flame down a side alley, we were treated to dinner and a show as a line of woks fuelled by fire prepared this specialty. Was it worth the hype? It was delicious, but the zingy prawn with grapefruit is still my favourite dish of the night.
With all kinds of flavours swishing around in our stomachs, we boarded the bouncy tuk-tuks once again and headed to the flower market – a visual and aromatic treat, enhanced by BBQ sausage on a stick.
The night was still young by Bangkok standards, and a special treat was waiting for us. As we climbed up several storeys to the rooftop of Eat Sight Story Deck, we were greeted by beer and cocktails accompanied by spectacular views of the river and Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn. Intricately decorated with coloured porcelain, it was even more colourful with a light installation beaming a rainbow of hues. Typical of Thai hospitality, we were made to feel so special on the tour that we barely contained grand illusions that the temple had been all dolled up in our honour.
Hot tips:
Book: Bangkok Food Tours offers several food tours by foot, boat and tuk-tuk, and we joined the Best Eats Midnight Food Tour by Tuk-Tuk.
Stay: Glow Bangkok Riverside, starting at $93 per night; NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard, starting at $128 per night.
Fly: Jetstar flies daily between Bangkok and most Australian capital cities, and with their ongoing sales, flights start as low as $200 one way, depending on the time of year you travel.
Carmen Jenner was a guest of Jetstar, Glow Bangkok Riverside and NH Bangkok Sukhumvit Boulevard.
