I had low expectations of Alice. There’s nowhere to go swimming of any kind and it’s in the middle of nowhere with no obvious attractions. People’s opinions differed vastly with no in between. Someone would say ‘it’s alternative and hippy, you’ll love it’ and then someone else would say ‘it’s a hole, there’s nothing there’. Before we arrived, we knew, you love it, or you hate it.
Lots has been written about Alice. Bill Bryson, like me, was a sceptic to begin with but loved it in the end. And although Robyn Davidson (‘Tracks’) spends a lot of time detailing the things that she hated about the place (in the ’70s), there was definitely a sense of pull that the town had on you then, and it’s just as strong today.
This city is built not in the outback but amongst it. The outback is part of the city and you cannot escape it, nor would you want to. The towering Mcdonald ranges are a constant looming reminder of the importance of country out here and the vastness of the land that surrounds you.
The awesome wide sandy creek bed full of beautiful ghost gums running through the town. Drive to the brewery 3 minutes out, drive anywhere even 2 minutes away and you are already driving through outback so stunning you think you are driving through an Albert Namajera painting.
Maybe it’s the washed-out, sun bleached paleness of everything. The trees, the dirt, the plants – everything looks like it’s been in a too hot wash and come out in tones easy on the eye.
You don’t have to be here long to notice, this place is happening. If you can count more than 3 super cool cafes in a town, ESPECIALLY of this size – there’s something going on. Something bringing young people in and keeping them there. And young people there were, everywhere. Some alternative, some professional, some grungy. At Monte’s Bar I saw a more eclectic bunch of people drinking together than I’ve seen since drinking at Section 8 in Melbourne many moons ago. A goth, a hippy with dread locks, people in all manner of work clothes, older people, and Aboriginals. That’s right, this is the first place so far on my trip around Australia that I have seen Aboriginals living harmoniously in the community. Everyone was eating and drinking together. It was a kind of Australian Utopia. An ad for what Australia could and should have been.
Monte’s Bar, I could tell by about 5pm, was an institution. It was a Sunday arvo, the local radio station was spinning records outside on the deck, the place was packed – and everyone was having a good time. People were friendly. To me, and to everyone else. The burgers were great, and the atmosphere was, as per the rest of Alice, welcoming and non-judgemental.
But I really wanted to know, who are all these people and how did they get here? We asked the guy running the local radio station who like nearly everyone else we met was not an Alice Springs local to begin with. He told us he left his home city of Sydney on a road trip many moons ago with a couple of mates and met some people who were living at Simpson’s Gap. They had an empty caravan on their property. He moved in, decided to stay a while and now Alice is his home. The best thing about Alice? “This is a place of opportunity, if you start something here, the people will support you.”
The first of many lovely cafés in Alice, Watertank is a big old warehouse/tin shed in an unassuming industrial street. It’s got a well-used community noticeboard, large selection of board games, book exchange, awesome outdoor area and comfy couches – not to mention top notch food. The owner seemed to be best mates with everyone and when we finally got the opportunity for a chat, she whispered to us almost scandalously; “I’m not from Alice. I’m originally from WA! I came to Alice when I was 19 and I’ve had the café for 34 years now, but I’ve just put it on the market!” I thought for a split second, this is it! This is my opportunity; we’ll move to Alice and buy the café! We’ll have the all elusive community I search for but can’t ever really find. But of course, reality is not so simple with a child, a home, a job to go back to. But a nice dream it was while we sat there eating our chicken crepes and home-made chocolate cake.
Another lovely bohemian style café where everybody knows your name (or maybe that’s just the whole of Alice!) House of Tullulah’ s owner, like everyone else I talk to here, is vibrant and energetic. She moved to Alice to work in one of the big-name hotels then decided to open her own café after having her first child. 5 years later and going strong she agreed “everything in Alice is easy, the money is easy, people are open and support new ideas and new businesses.”
A few things I noticed in Alice – it was hard to get a car park in the town centre, which is always busy. No matter what time we went to a café, they were all, always, at least half full. There are loads of young people around and everyone looks that little bit happier than I’m used to.
It’s a pity really that Alice never made it here herself (the town is named after South Australia’s Post-Master General Sir Charles Todd’s wife, although she never visited herself). One thing’s for sure, this is a town of opportunities and as it looks to me, the best of Australia, and the best of Australians, magnified. If you are ever lucky enough to visit, you’d be luckier still to be able to stay.
Article by Tania from Achtung Camper. Read all the Around Australia We Go columns here.
