Tokyo. An electric and exciting city underpinned with serenity and spirituality. From the pulsating energy of people at the busiest crosswalk in the world, the quirkiness of girls in costume in Harijuku, to the gracefulness of women who still walk the streets in traditional dress, and the gentle energy of temple gardens.
The Great Search For A California Roll
I love the quirks and curiosities of food in overseas supermarkets and convenience stores. It’s one of my favourite travel pastimes to spend hours walking down the aisles and delight in enthrallment, whilst enthusiastically exclaiming to my travel partner (who may or may not share my penchant for the peculiarities of foreign food), “Look, they have pumpkin Haagen Dazs. PUMPKIN. Haaaaaaaagen Dazs. That’s ice cream with pumpkin. I’m so buying that, I have to know what it tastes like.”
Whilst I could find all manner of oddities, such as hamburgers on shelves sans refrigeration, Collagen infused drinks and Chuppa Chup flavoured milk, I simply could not clap my hands on a Californian roll.
Because as I discovered after thorough investigation (many a conversation in broken English), there are none. Not in cafés, restaurants or even in 711.
Whilst I was unable to enjoy a sushi roll on the go, I can say that eating out in Japan is sublime. My two dining highlights of Tokyo were Andy’s Fish Restaurant and a fabulous Japanese grill and bar.
Gaynor Alder with Andy, Chef & Owner of Andy’s Fish Restaurant
As you know, I thrive on adventure and throwing my itinerary out the window when I travel. Which is why when a chance conversation with a US pilot led to insistence we go to Andy’s Fish Restaurant whilst also mentioning it’s a bit of adventure to find, I turned to my boyfriend and said, “We’re so there.”
After swapping train lines a couple of times, and venturing out into the Shin Himono streets with a rough mud map, turning left at one landmark, right at the next, and backtracking down a few other streets, we found the beacon of Andy’s red lantern signaling we were there.
Walking into the restaurant we were engulfed by an atmosphere overflowing with animated and lively conversation and laughter, and a feeling of joy and connectedness that comes from sharing really great food with friends.
Taking our seat, I was able to absorb the charm of the unassuming surroundings, along with a roof reminiscent of a fishing boat. And it was not before long, we were enjoying some of the finest quality seafood and superb cooking I’ve ever had the pleasure of experiencing.
And there’s a reason for that. Andy.
Whilst we were eating, I noticed Andy had come out of the kitchen and he was standing back quietly looking out over the restaurant, and it seemed he had a smile in his eyes as he watched everyone eating their meals.
I took the opportunity to say hello to him, and I loved hearing about his passion for going to the markets every morning to hand select fresh seafood for each night’s meal. When we tried to tip him, he refused and said that in Japan it is not custom to do so, and his reward is seeing the pleasure on people’s faces after enjoying his food.
A British expat who is married to a Japanese woman, Andy has been running his restaurant for 25 years with what seems to be unwavering inspiration and commitment to quality produce and happy customers.
Andy, we’ll be back.
Here are the instructions to find Andy’s.
The rest of our restaurants were chosen in the following fashion, “Ooooooh, that place looks good, want to go in there for dinner?” And it was so, that we stumbled into a Japanese grill and bar.
An uber cool, ambient and intimate space, with benches running around the perimeter of the bar, and instead of them just being a place to rest your wine, everyone had their very own grill to cook thinly sliced tender meats from the menu. Watching the Japanese patrons, they approached it in a tapas fashion and languished into the evening whilst also enjoying their sake.
It was here my boyfriend and I decided to pop our cherry. Sake virgins we are no more.
Getting Your Shrine On
Holding the Japanese spirituality of Shinto in its heart, Meiju Jingu shrine and forest was created in 1920 in honour of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. After their passing the people of Japan donated 100,000 trees and worked voluntarily to create a forest that is now nestled in amongst the city. A place of peace, its creation represents the Shinto values of harmony with nature and devotion to a sincere heart, which is the Japanese way of life.
A Futon For The Night
B: Conte in Ariake is promoted as a luxury home away from home, and it certainly lived up to its promise. Our suite had a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, laundry, free broadband, and all the comforts of modern apartment living. And the view from our balcony looked out over the water to Tokyo city in the distance.
The staff were very welcoming and friendly and went out of their way to help us with directions, recommendations on where to go, making restaurant bookings and checking the availability of tours. The room service was impeccable and we had a gorgeous selection of gourmet teas left in our room each day.
Whilst it is designed for business people, it’s also perfect for families and those staying in Tokyo for a longer period of time. It’s still close enough to the city and easily accessible by the train or monorail, but just far enough way to recharge in peaceful surroundings.
B:Conte is competitively priced for the level of quality it offers, enabling you to enjoy your holiday and come back to unwind after a busy day of making the most of what Tokyo has to offer. And service like theirs really does make all the difference to your holiday experience. Check out this useful guide on best places to stay in Tokyo if you want to explore other options.
Dear Tokyo Clothing Stores. We Need To Talk.
Sorry. It’s not me. It’s you.
Sure, you have world class shopping districts, but it’s just that, well, whilst I enjoyed swanning down the designer lined streets of Ginza, to actually enter such designer domains, is quite simply holiday shopping budget suicide.
The only thing I can really do when in the presence of the holy houses of Chanel and Gucci is fog up their windows as I press myself up against the glass drooling over cashmere coats that cost more than a round the world ticket.
And whilst I love anything fancy pants, I take umbrage having to pay $12 for a bad coffee just because it’s in a café next door to Dior, especially when my daily Starbucks caramel macchiato kicked its arse.
Harijuku Lane was fun and I really enjoyed walking up and down the vibrant lanes, but whilst I loved its novelty, still not an item of apparel could I find to take back through customs.
I had high hopes for the department stores aimed at the youth in Shibuya, but again, I came back with nothing. For I realised after pounding the city streets, Tokyo has a style of its own, one that seems to cater only for teens or women who can sashay into designer stores, and not only buy the cashmere coat without fluttering an eyelash, but also the handbag before telling the sales assistant, “Oh, why not throw in that darling little $2000 head scarf as well. It’ll be a perfect match for my swimsuit whilst I’m laying by the pool in our holiday house in Provence. We summer there every year you know.”
But when it comes to beautiful homewares and kimono style dressing gowns, you really redeemed yourself and won over my affections in the Asakusa district. How do you do that? Manage to make souvenirs beautiful enough to buy? I mean, have you seen those gum nut fridge magnets and Golden Wattle tea towels we have in Australia?
It’s okay. You and I are still tight. Because I was really happy to spend my money on the experience of exploring your beautiful city and just finding a few beautiful keepsakes. And now, every time I burn my Japanese incense or a gentle breeze catches my wind chime, I’m reminded of the special time we shared together.
In the next and final installment of an Australian Girl in Japan, Gaynor Alder travels by bullet train to Kyoto and Osaka.
Image credits: stuART photography
