Hovering below the southern tip of India and about the same size as Tasmania, Sri Lanka offers all the vibrancy of its frenetic neighbour and the compactness of Australia’s island state. This colourful tear-drop country packs in a lot ranging from safaris, glamping in national parks, iconic treks and fiery food. Those who take the time to explore are rewarded with a deep connection to the culture and nature, often accompanied by beaming smiles and hospitality as warm as the climate, which is saying something given its steamy proximity to the equator.
Getting wild on a sustainable safari
Sri Lanka is famed for its elephants and has one of the highest concentrations of leopards living in national parks seen on safari in the world. However, not every safari is regulated, and if in doubt, seek out ethical wildlife tourism operators such as Niluka Safari or refer to Destination Sri Lanka.
Opt for safaris promoting mindful practices such as keeping a respectful distance and remaining on the designated paths. Safaris run for most of the year in national parks such as Udawalawe, Minneriya, Yala and Wilpattu, but if you travel during the shoulder or off-season during monsoon, you’ll avoid the crowds. Staying overnight in eco-friendly accommodation or glamping in national parks means you can join a sunrise, sunset or night safari when the animals are most active, but the average tourist isn’t. With any luck, you will see leopards lounging around in trees and families of elephants giving each other mud baths – even the animals in Sri Lanka engage in the rejuvenating practices of Ayurveda.
Iconic treks
With over 900 named mountains and diverse trails in Sri Lanka, it’s like Mother Nature designed this island with trekking in mind. The trek down to the Nine Arches Bridge is the most popular way to capture one of the most photographed bridges in Southeast Asia. While you’re in Ella, Little Adam’s Peak is a short hike offering sweeping views of Ella Rock, the valley and ranges in the distance, or you can zip-line through the valley at an exhilarating 80kmph.
Unlike its little brother, Adam’s Peak requires a strenuous climb up 5,000 stairs to the summit at 2,243 metres. Reaching the top, which resembles a large footprint that many believe belonged to Buddha, is a pilgrimage many take in the early morning to catch the sunrise over the valley.
You’ll be rewarded with frescoes, gardens and reservoirs on the arduous hike of 1200 steps to the top of Sigiriya, reached by stairs precariously suspended on the side of the rock face. One of the best ways to admire this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a 30-minute clamber up Pidurangala Rock, one kilometre away with a natural platform designed to admire Sigiriya.
To really challenge yourself, the remote Knuckles Mountain Range requires a guide and usually overnight camping. By the time you’ve reached the dramatic World’s End in the Horton Plains National Park, it might feel like the end world as the ridge plummets for over 2000 metres into the plateau below.
Fiery food
Take comfort in knowing that while your taste buds are getting a fiery workout, the spicy ingredients for Sri Lanka’s traditional dishes are grown under sustainable agricultural practices, including cinnamon, coconut, and some of the hottest chillis on the planet. With the national dish of rice and curry, nothing is safe from ending up in the curry pot with a prescribed spice and herb base, with variations in the quantities and combinations unique to each region and community.
Rice is almost as important as the curry itself, particularly the fragrant red rice that imparts a nutty flavour. Signature dishes include Kottu Roti (chopped roti in a tasty stir-fry of meat, vegetables, spices and curry sauce), Hoppers resembling a concave pancake made from rice flour, coconut milk and spices, and Lamprais, which is a mixed-meat curry wrapped in a banana leaf and baked.
It is hardly surprising this island is famed for its seafood, particularly tuna, which is usually curried, of course. There’s no mystery behind the inspiration of the renowned Ministry of Crab restaurant in Colombo dedicated to the legendary delicacy.
Wet ‘n wild
Unawatuna translates as “it fell from the sky,” and this heaven-sent beach hosts makeshift cafes, bars, guesthouses, and water sports like diving, snorkelling, fishing, boating and swimming. Snorkelling equipment and diving trips to explore the reefs, marine life, and shipwrecks can be organised along the beach, with ideal conditions from mid-October to the end of April.
Famed for its surfing on the southwest (November to April) and east coast (May to October), the opposite coastlines offer year-round swells for beginner and intermediate surfers year round. Ahangama and Midigama are known for their consistent waves on the south coast due to the many rocks and coral; however, the conditions can sometimes be perilous. Weligama (meaning Sandy Village) and Marissa border on the surreal in the beauty stakes with palm tree-lined golden sands, and Giragala Rock has small reefs ideal for snorkelling, fishing and epic sunsets.
May to October offers the best surfing on the east coast, and Arugam Bay is the main surf area known for its rideable waves on most days of the season. About an hour south, Okanda Beach has similar swells, and Pottuvil Point offers a sheltered alternative for surfing, swimming and boating when Arugam Bay is pumping.
Ancient Rejuvenation
You usually associate having a massage as a relaxing experience, right? But delving into Ayurveda can be as rejuvenating or intensive as you (or your practitioner) desire. Treatments include nutrition advice, medicinal herbs, intensive cleanses known as panchakarma, vigorous massages and shirodhara, where warm oil is gently poured for 30 minutes onto your third eye.
In some instances, you’ll receive a full medical assessment based on your diet, exercise regime, lifestyle and medical history to determine the root of any ailments. No sins are left unturned and although sometimes confronting, the process is used to determine your dosha (life force) employing the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and space.
Ayurveda literally means “The Science of Life,” where ayuh is life and veda is science. Considered the oldest healing practice in the world and believed to have anti-ageing benefits, there are Ayurvedic centres all over the island, from wooden huts in remote locations to luxurious resorts specialising in this ancient practice.
Unchartered Sri Lanka
You’ve seen the images of mist descending over green rolling hills and influencers hanging out of trains and frolicking among palm trees. There’s nothing wrong with this and getting those iconic shots can be loads of fun, however, there is a lot more to Sri Lanka.
Using a local tour company is one way of gaining a unique perspective on this vibrant country, especially if you’re short on time. Many companies offer bespoke tours, including the tourism board and a handful offer customised one-off tours, such as Soul Sri Lanka. Depending on your preferences, you can have a unique experience or learn a new skill, such as learning how to drive a tuk-tuk, spending the day in the life of a tea plucker, or touring unchartered territory in the north.
Once armed with a licence for driving and hiring a tuk-tuk, you could be careening around the island freely exploring within your own timeframe. Independent travel is enriching in Sri Lanka thanks to the friendly locals who generously share their culture with tourists, welcoming you to immerse yourself in this magical island nation.
I was a guest of the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau. Sri Lankan Airlines has direct flights to Colombo from Melbourne and has partnered with Qantas from other major Australian cities.
