I recently told a friend I was visiting Jindivick for this column, and after asking what Jindivick was and then where Jindivick was, he finally asked, ‘but is anything there?’ ‘Dunno,’ was my response, ‘but apparently they’ve got a nice cafe, so I guess it’s worth checking out.”
Ha! Haha! Oh, naive little ol’ me. How cute I can be. Cute. And stupid.
Jindivick, a smidge over an hour’s drive from Melbourne, is probably the place I will retire to when I’m old and cranky with the city. Not just because of the incredible cafe it has to offer (don’t worry, I’ll get to that) and not just because of the flora wonderland it bestows upon all of us. And definitely not just because of the various dogs ready to welcome you into general stores/cafes/art galleries/plant nurseries (although that helps an animal lover like me). It’s because this is the kind of place Australian soap operas are based on.
Tiny towns, big hearts, warm characters, amorous pets and, above all else, a random, deserted tram now posing as a fernery.
Let’s start with their love of unusual flora. The town presents an utterly exquisite day out for plant lovers, with two nurseries in town, both with completely different personalities. A five minute drive out of town is Jindi Hill Nursery, run by locals Colleen and Carl and their three dogs (two are friendly, one not so much – I’ll let you figure out which one when you visit). Upon arrival you may think you’re trespassing on someone’s private property, but in actual fact Colleen sells her fabulous collection of plants direct from her home and through local markets.
Taking a walk around the property, visitors will feel like Alice lost in some kind of quirky plant Wonderland, with every turn presenting something else unexpected, be it a brood of inquisitive chickens, a herd of big-eyed cows, a rusted old tram housing hundreds of seedlings, or lemon and orange trees drooping under the weight of excess fruit.
The other flowery place in town – Jindivick Country Gardner – is slightly more polished. Extraordinarily stocked and it is home to a tonne of rare and unusual plans. Perhaps they’re there simply to shock and impress people like me, but perhaps it’s to actually service those who know what they’re doing and have been looking everywhere for that South African heamanthus albiflos.
The Gardner snuggles up to Harvest Kitchen, the new kid on the block, and that cafe I was telling you about earlier.
A dusty grey wood-panelled cottage on the main drag, Harvest Kitchen offers local produce and a glorious wine selection. Opened less than a year, the menu is extensive with decent sized servings, and if you don’t order the arancini then you’re just mad. With an open fire and breathtaking views on offer, this is the place to sit and soak up the country lifestyle.
And then there is the town’s general store. A beautifully rustic wooden store complete with faded paintwork and a random petrol bowser, heavy wood scents the air while creaky floorboards alert workers that someone has arrived. From torches to chocolate, boots to books – if you need it, chances are they’ve got it. A beautiful selection of locally produced jams, biscuits and dukkah, many adorned with red and blue chequered material and tiny satin bows, are dusted around the store reminding us all of a life so simple and pure. Don’t leave without buying some plum jam. Trust me on this.
At just an hour and a bit from town, it’s hard to fault Jindivick for a day trip and a shot of simple country life. Take me with you when you go, yes? Thanks.
