When I was 23, I flew to Sydney for the premier of The Lion King musical. Those who’ve seen it will know that it opens with performers in jaw-droppingly spectacular costumes stalking the stage and aisles. Though almost twenty years ago, I remember goosebumps blooming up my arms in the realisation of how epic the show would be.
Seated in the inky velvet Lobby Lounge at The Westin, I have a similar reaction. I’m here with a friend for High SocieTea and the waiter has just presented our first dish: A juniper cured ora king salmon, wild scampi caviar and handmade charcoal tart. Nestled on a bed of tiny seashells and housed in a glass chest, the tart in question is obscured by plumes of smoke. The waiter smiles. My friend and I open the lids in unison releasing a puff of white cloud. The various indulgent features of the dish are listed by our waiter, the most impressive of which is the electric blue-coloured wild scampi caviar piled on top. It turns out all the high teas I’ve been to have only been medium teas. And so, as with The Lion King, the tone is set.
The menu, developed by Executive Chef Apoorva Kunte, promises to be a decadent exploration of caviar, cheese and chocolate. Cheese and caviar feature next in the form of puffy little fennel-scented scones topped with a dollop of mascarpone, oscietra caviar and—I am not making this up—a crumple of gold leaf. It’s a scone fit for a Klimt! By this stage, I feel a little giddy. There’s almost too many beautiful details for me to process. The Rob Dolan 2019 Black Label blanc de blanc champagne steadies me. I look over at my companion, her grin mirroring my own. This is an afternoon tea that you bring someone special to. The kind you surprise them with because there aren’t enough words to describe how you feel about them.
Next, is a slow-baked camembert topped with truffle that we begin by daintily smearing onto fruit toast and end by straight-up eating with a fork. By this stage, we’re laughing with the joy of it. Our waiter, who seems as charmed by the menu as we are, approaches with a three-tiered tray of sculptural delicacies. Pulled lamb and chevre sliders, savory bacon-dusted doughnuts and, oh, dear, here come the desserts. There’s brownie cookies sandwiched with cream and amarena cherries, and a warm chocolate tart topped with whiskey anglaise and a burnt marshmallow. Between them sits madeleine-shaped chocolates. When you take a bite, the creamy plant-based chocolate bursts with the vibrant tang of raspberries.
At the end we sit contented, discussing the merits of each artful morsel, unable to decide on a mutual favourite. There’s one thing we do agree on though — cucumber sandwiches ain’t got nothing on this.
High SocieTea is available at The Westin until 16 October 2022 from 4pm–8pm for $110 per person, including a glass of Rob Dolan Black Series wine.