The law of Melbourne restaurants dictates that the harder it is to find, the better the eatery will be. And the more frustrating the parking is, the more accolades the restaurant will collect.
If that is in fact the case, then all signs point to Newmarket Hotel as Melbourne’s hottest new dining scene. Gone are the days when new spaces sprung up around Melbourne in an unassuming fashion. What’s hot in Melbourne is no longer a well kept secret, but rather a spirited word of mouth that sends patrons in droves to wait out in long lines come rain or shine. This new level of excitement has also bred an unsurpassed passion for eating out and eating out well. Melbournians are a discerning bunch and it’s starting to take a whole lot more than good food to keep them happy.
Julian Gerner, consultant chef Paul Wilson and the design team Six Degrees are the line-up responsible for The Albert Park and Middle Park Hotels and the ever popular Sunday Session hangout at The Royal Saxon in Richmond, and it’s clear they know how to keep their regulars happy. There’s evidence aplenty that there is instant gratification to be had from a spotless reputation, and it’s this repute that has sent the new gastro-pub straight to the top of everyone’s dining list.
Bouncing off the unmitigated success of half-waterhole, half-restaurant venues that have been cropping up around Melbourne and the sudden explosion of Melbournians with cravings for Spanish inspired food, Newmarket picks up where others have left off and executes it with great vigour.
It’s a rainy mid-week night when I make my first voyage to the new Newmarket Hotel, previous home to the lesser esteemed Tits and Shnitz. The gentrification of St Kilda is obvious, bending to hip storefronts and cafes that continue to pop up in incredibly swift fashion. Newmarket seems to have relented on this occasion (on the outside), retaining the original red brick exterior of its original fit out to intermingle effortlessly and unobtrusively with its neighbours.
Behind the old facade however, is a new look that screams Six Degrees. A mix of indoor and outdoor dining spaces blend seamlessly amidst the heavy concrete design with dramatic arches and large windows that encompass the inside dining area. There is an undistinguishable bar/restaurant mix that provides an energetic and extremely noisy atmosphere and proves that Newmarket isn’t above shying away from big crowds.
Reservations are essential and I’m told mine is running 15 minutes late with the inside area swelling to maximum capacity (and volume) as the outdoor seating is left empty thanks to Mother Nature and her unpredictable ways. Unperturbed by the wait, I set up camp at the bar, flanked by an exciting selection of cocktails that pay a delicious homage to the Latin flavoured inspiration behind Newmarket.
When my drink arrives I am initially impressed, but confused by the mint concoction that I’m sure is not my order. A flustered bar attendant reappears seconds later to tell me that he had in fact, poured me the wrong drink. Nevertheless, I’m offered this drink (Confederate Cup) free of charge and my initial order materialises minutes later. It is here that I need to extend accolades to the bartenders who must also be skilled mind readers, knowing the original drink I ordered (Chilean Charge) would be too sweet for me. Evidently more bar attendants need to get their orders wrong.
The menu recognises that Melbournians are appreciative of good food and it is incredibly indulgent of the Mexican cravings. Decision making proves to be an arduous task, and over ordering is essential.
Though it’s pitted as a Californian inspired- Hispanic grill, the expansive menu veers to all corners of South America, with selections of local market produce, Hispanic cured meats, Latin street food, salads, cocoas (Catalan pizzas), wood oven rotisserie and rare breeds roasted from a wood BBQ all enveloped in a healthy dose of original flavour.
Newmarket is certainly one of the great things about the progression of Melbourne’s multi-cultural food landscape – a fusion of all different elements that brings a little bit of fun, a little bit of atmosphere and a lot of good food. It’s worth a visit (or several to cover all the sections on the menu). If you can get a table…
Newmarket Hotel, 34 Inkerman Street, St Kilda, Melbourne, VIC
