Blacklisted recently collaborated with Fleurage Perfumery to present a fashion parade with a difference, that explored the sights, sounds and scents of Morocco. As the models walked down the catwalk, bespoke scent designed for the evening was diffused into the air.
The first parade, ‘Blacklisted Reconstructed’ was designed utilising Blacklisted garments as blank canvases and then pieces were cut, chopped and removed to create individual and unique garments. Deb, from Blacklisted, has a resourcefulness that allows her to think outside the square and draw on her collection of fabrics and spare materials that she has lovingly collected, or should we say hoarded over the years.
The second parade, ‘Blacklisted in Marrakesh’ was based on her love of Moroccan interiors – “I designed this collection mixing the simplicity of the kaftans and its silhouette together with interior fabrics to create an elegant, feminine look.”
Not surprisingly, Deb recently travelled to Morocco with Colleen Cassar and six female artists. For Deb, Morocco became much more than just a trip to a new country – it became a spiritual journey. She found herself profoundly moved by the simplicity of the Moroccan way of life.
Their Call of Prayer that occurs five times a day starting at 5am, freed Deb from the stresses of Western society, and allowed her to fully immerse herself in their culture.
The Moroccan people wash their clothes in rivers and shepherds still herd their livestock across the land. In the Western world, we would consider them poor, but despite having very little, they appear to be happy and rich in spirit. What stood out for Deb was the way they go about their day-to-day lives, stopping to greet people and engaging with a real joy of conversation. Deb left Morocco wanting to give, not take.
Deb was equally touched and inspired by the landscape, sights and sounds of Morocco. A vibrant palette of blue, green, red, gold and orange; set against the backdrop of white washed walls and exquisitely carved wooden doors. Chiffon curtains blowing in the gentle summer breeze; colourful cushions strategically strewn across the floor; the patterns and textures of exotic interiors and the colourful tiles on dwellings.
The beat of traditional music, donkeys hooves on the cobbled stones as they meandered along carrying supplies; children laughing and playing; the sun releasing the fragrance of fresh rose petals from neighbouring hills; the romance and craftsmanship of people felting, carving, sewing to make shoes, bags and wares to sell in their shops and the traditional Moroccan dress which naturally blended with the surroundings and landscape.
Deb had many beautiful and wondrous experiences, including a visit to Yves St. Laurent’s garden called J’ardin Majorelle, but it was one of the simplest moments that proved to be a real highlight.
Whilst escaping the 40 degree heat, sipping a mint tea and lounging against some large old cushions behind giant carved wooden doors that opened up into a beautiful old café, Deb happened to notice that one of the cushion covers had a burst seam. Curious of the contents, she began exploring its insides, to discover it was filled with old scraps of fabric. She discreetly started to pull them out and chanced upon a long piece of frayed yet beautiful gold damask fabric.
Deb now wears this as a headpiece, and this necklace and every time she wears it, she thinks of that day overlooking the rooftops of the Medina and the sound of the Call to Prayer in the distance.
Above: Deb from Blacklisted
Deb found many other treasures, which whenever she wears also take her back to those hot lazy days watching the world go past. These include an old prayer mat that she purchased in Fes as a scarf for her neck; a scarf that she wears as a turban and belt that she bought at an old market where camels used to come in from the desert to rest overnight with their owners; and an old berber silk belt which she drapes around her neck as a necklace.
Deb’s intention was to capture her experience of Morocco in her collection – how the essence of simplicity can open our eyes to the beauty of life in its purest form. At the heart of her collection is an expression of gratitude to Morocco.
As a Fashion Designer, Deb is stimulated by cultures and their traditional dress. Deb loves looking back to the 1950’s, when women dressed as women, wearing matching shoes, handbags, gloves and hats. “You should always get dressed up for your butcher”, Deb says.
Deb’s commitment is to originality and creative integrity, and as such she doesn’t follow trends. For her, they spell the ugly side of copying styles from the Paris and Milan fashion shows, where garments are mass-produced to quickly sell in stores.
When speaking of Melbourne, Deb says, “Melbourne has really grown up and matured in the last 20 years to become an amazing city offering a diversity of lifestyles from the café scene and restaurants to shopping precincts. I love the way we embrace new things which adds to the richness of our multi-cultural society. I love it that we have seasons that allow us to express our personal image every three months. I wouldn’t live any where else in the world.”
Deb’s passion is to create designs for Melbourne fashionistas who want something special and who also enjoy the experience of a designer speaking to the person behind the design. She wants her clientele to feel they have purchased a garment that expresses their character and celebrates their individuality, whilst also feeling proud that they are supporting true fashion and made in Melbourne designs.
“It is no secret I am outrageously passionate about scent and perfumery. To my friends I am the Baroness of Perfume and I have made my love of scent my life as co-founder and perfumer of Fleurage.” – Emma Jane Leah, Perfumer and Director of Fleurage
Emma from Fleurage Perfumery has been considering the notion of a scented event for some time, and the perfect opportunity presented itself when learning of Deb’s recent adventures in Morocco.
Emma believes that harmonising fragrance alongside image is especially powerful, because our sense of smell is directly linked to our memory faculty. “Sight is a dominant sense today, and people seem to have forgotten how to absorb and assess an experience using multiple levels of sensorial input. We forget that smell is the most primal of our receptors.”
For Emma, fashion is the perfect way to reintroduce this concept, as when scent is designed to couple with imagery, it makes a more lasting impact on the mind. Images can be seen on any medium but to attend a parade where you can immerse yourself completely in the mind of the designer and their inspirations is a fantastical experience that creates a lasting memory.
Rather than use an existing fragrance from Fleurage’s extensive collection, Emma designed ‘Exotique’ and ‘Aphrodisiac’ to synchronise with the Moroccan inspired garments. Her goal was to create a complete experiential landscape to transport the audience to another world – Deb’s world.
(Psst, see that hottie in black in the middle, next to Lady Melbourne? That’s Onya’s fab Beauty Editor Gaynor Alder)
Emma believes this was the first time that a Fashion Designer and Perfumer have joined creative forces, to bring an event of such sensory experience to an audience. It is a concept that she feels is the way forward to engage and continually capture the interest of the public.
Emma is looking forward to working with other designers in the future, and applying her expertise to create bespoke scents that communicate the individuality and capture the essence of their range to their customers.
The process of designing a bespoke scent for a parade or event, requires not only the expertise of an experienced Perfumer, but also astute consideration of the environment. Scent must never be sprayed directly onto guests and the scent must be universally appealing.
In order for Emma to communicate Deb’s story through fragrance to the Blacklisted in Marrakesh audience, she had many meetings with Deb, where they discussed her trip in great detail, and she also viewed her working designs at various stages of the creative process.
Emma then created a mood board of colours, fabrics and imagery. The most notable of Deb’s experiences that Emma was able to connect with, was her tale of a visit to a French perfumery. Perfume was decanted from urns into a bottle to match her taste, along with her experience of becoming completely absorbed in the smell of rose petals, after buying them from a market and scattering them over her bed.
Emma was excited to work with Deb, as they both share a philosophy of remaining true to their art, and reviving real beauty and craftsmanship in their industries and our modern world. They both enjoy working with like minds, as it helps to maintain their focus to be continually innovative in their fields. Emma believes, that “when there is a meeting of like minds, driven by passion, there are no limits to what can be achieved.”
Blacklisted in Marrakesh was not only a groundbreaking event from Melbourne Designers that completely immersed its guests in the beauty of Morocco, but a successful collaboration of energy between two brilliant creative minds, both committed to creative integrity and authenticity.
Blacklisted: http://www.blacklistedfashion.com.au
Fleurage: http://www.fleurage-natural-perfume.com.au/
Photography by Garth Ernzsten
WIN – CLOSED
Would you like to experience Morocco with Fleurage Perfumery?
Aphrodisiac is a rich sensual scent combining themes of roses, chocolate and sandalwood.
Exotique is a spiritual, warm and spicy scent incorporating the essences of frankincense, ginger and sandalwood.
– Aphrodisiac Body Lotion
– Aphrodisiac Perfume Mist
– Exotique Body Oil
– Exotique Perfume Mist
– $20 Voucher to Fleurage Perfumery
Email info@onyamagazine.com prior to July the 5th, 2010 with the subject line ‘Fashion & Fragrance’, as well as your full name and postal address for your chance to win these beautiful bespoke scents designed for the Blacklisted at Marrakesh event. The winner will be picked at random and notified by email on July the 5th.
