Spring has sprung and with it arrives Melbourne Spring Fashion Week. The opening night saw an eclectic crowd of designers, stylists, bloggers and fashionable Melburnians gather for the first of four designer runways.
Of the eight designers, three definitely stole the show. Dom Bagnato, Jason Grech and Richard Nylon Millinery, all totally different in their aesthetics, had one thing in common – they killed it.
The only menswear designer in the lineup, the models at Dom Bagnato were slick, stylish and dapper. Three piece double and single breasted suits in different hues of grey, silver, black, peachy browns, navy and light blue were classic and well-cut. Pairing light and dark, contrasting colours, plain and patterned and different hues of the same colour together gave a classy but refreshing twist on the classic suit.
To a soundtrack of pulsing 80’s synth-pop, Jason Grech demanded attention from the very first look. Bondage style corsets and gowns of sheer and lace reveal detailed backs with asymmetrical straps and buckles in a punked-up couture style. In other pieces there’s lots of leg a la Angelina Jolie and keyhole cut-outs at the chest. Dramatic black masks add a sense of wicked and drama to the first few looks, while the final piece in the collection is a simpler, almost Grecian style chartreuse evening gown. The punk and bondage element remains although slightly softer this time, with light metal straps buckling at the back.
The theatrics of the evening were brought by Richard Nylon with his breathtaking display of millinery, hung on models wearing black full length transparent lace dresses. The dramatic white accessories were closer to pieces of beautiful abstract artwork than fashion, and the display was certainly the most exciting, unique and innovative collection of the night.
Gwendolynne’s white floaty ‘20s style full-length dresses open the show, with gorgeous open backs, lace and art deco-style embellished crystals decorating the gowns. Floral garlands combined with the beautiful lyrical melody of the harp being played on stage, evoking images of running through fields of flowers and the Virgin Suicides.
Detailed backs continue at Aurelio Costeralla with ‘hardware glamour’ – sequins and silky satins in neutral, army and khaki colours. Pink and white screen printed roses appear on a variety of dresses at Nicolangela and then in black and white before a monochrome tuxedo-style evening closes the collection. Silver, black and forest green in a range of textures dominate Jayson Brunsdon’s latest collection – a standout piece is a combination of a PVC look skirt with a sharp, sleeveless jacket with a deep slash in the front. Brides looking for something pretty, classy or to make a statement can find inspiration from Craig Braybrook Couture, whose white bridal collection was heavy with lace and crystal embellishment and intricate detailing.
Between each designer was a musical interlude, with musicians performing on the runway and at Richard Nylon, even walking with the models. They performed a fitting encore under the spotlight, the different instruments and music styles reflecting each designer’s unique collection.
Off the catwalk, true to Melbourne form, plenty of dark greys and blacks were spotted, layered in different textures and always paired with a hint of leather. Slightly impractical but bang on trend all-white ensembles were also a-plenty. Longer skirt lengths, lower necklines and statement jewellery were the choices of many, as well as bright pops of colour peeping out from the seats. More adventurous and theatrical outfits were in abundance in the front row, perfectly capturing the drama and excitement of the evening.
Image credits: Matthew Raabus | Mirar Photography