There was no interpretive dance, burly male models or fur flying courtesy of PETA on Friday night; Runway Show 4 was relatively drama free. That’s not to say the show was boring however, quite the contrary in fact. Friday night was all about the idiosyncratic Melbourne aesthetic, clean lines, understated minimalism and a few starry-eyed fashionistas who had snuck over just in time from the Lady Petrova Prom.
The show began with Alpha 60, the boutique street wear label that has long provided us with that perfect contrast between femininity and a healthy dose of engineered design. Their spring/summer 2011 collection was without exception. Dresses with tie-front detailing featured briefly and then gave way to a more boxy looking aesthetic with wide straps and asymmetrical hem lines. For the boys, the grey and white spray jacket was a stand out and is easily one of those pieces that will transcend seasons. Blacks, navys and greys made up most of the collection, making for the perfect antidote to the all white summer it appears the fashion gods have deemed upon us this season. The minimal use of colour ensuring that Alpha 60’s collection is one that is not only wearable day or night but also one that can be worn for seasons to come.
Next to saunter down the runway was a collection of Carly Hunter designs, all in her signature draped style. It was the first we were to see of the many different versions of the blazer/shorts suit combination, an obvious summer trend (making the investment in fake tan all the more important). Models were swathed in soft sheer drapes of fabric, built-in layers and some more structural forms in muted colours including grey, black and nude, with a hint of coral for those more colour-inclined. Hunter’s longer hemlines and occasional longer sleeve make for summer dressing with class, there were no short shorts or diminutive hemlines in this collection. Instead there were subtle hints of skin with silk pants featuring knee cut outs and classic black sheer see-through pieces. Sensual rather than sexy is clearly what Hunter does best and her lightweight pieces make for the perfect tran-seasonal wear.
The first label to really set the flash bulbs alight was none other than the formidable Alistair Trung. Particularly catching the eye of the fashion folk was his brilliant blue loose, layered dress, the first real splash of colour on a mostly muted runway to that point. Trung’s artistic approach to clothing and his love of extending the natural lines of the body was always going to wow the crowd, so too were the flimsy gowns that littered the runway in bold blues and greens. Billowing chiffon trains extended from draped silk dresses, making the models appear to be about to take flight. And yet the highlight? Yes there were many, but for me it was the stunning teal green backless cowl neck dress that quite literally took my breath away and brought about a collective sigh from the audience – the first of the evening.
Trimapee, although given the hard task of following Trung, held its own and gave way to a slightly more feminine collection. It was all about high neck shirts, cowl draped necks and my personal favourite, the sheer waffle cotton maxi dresses in hues of orange and white. For the boys, much like last season it was still well and truly about the cuffed/rolled up pant paired with buttoned high neck shirts and loafers. Yet, notably Trimapee’s attention to detail when it came to their menswear designs is what set them apart from the rest. They added pleated panels to the front of their shirts, harem pants in a more daring silk rayon and a bold burnt orange draped jacket – not for the fainthearted.
Another label for those men boasting bravado this season was Above. Their standout piece was in fact a dip-dyed lightweight grey and white suit, which seemed to be proof that the men in our lives can colour block this season too. For us ladies their matronly collar like lattice dress (which for some reason had me drawing comparisons to the Colosseum) and array of pleat pants and shorts in a gorgeous deep red colour had me hovering from Above, on cloud nine.
Rounding out some of the last of the designers was Limedrop (who also provided us all with a delightful floral PVC show bag). Put simply Limedrop is all about fun and their collection more so. The standout was, what can only be described as the quirky mini cap sleeved cape that seemed to adorn much of their collection. The quirky detail included flaps of fabric attached to the back of dresses and tops which free-flowed as models took to the runway and contrasted with the slim pencil skirts styled with them. Whilst it was all about capes, patterns and stripes for the ladies, for the lads it was more so about the Hugh Hefner-esque Playboy silk scarf and bomber jacket in a daring gold and brown print.
Removing ourselves from images of the Playboy Mansion grotto, we next stepped into the swinging sixties thanks to S!X. Models stepped onto the runway to the tune of Serge Gainsbourg and Bridget Bardot’s Bonnie and Clyde, taking to the all white catwalk in a sea of mismatched patterned 60’s style kaftans. None of which were in the slightest bit practical but all were insanely fabulous for a time in your life when you might be planning a holiday to the Caribbean aboard a yacht (one can dream).
And whilst I was deep in thought about my imaginary summer holiday, Arnsdorf managed to bring me gently back to reality with their latest collection (my personal favourite) and the show’s worthy closer. The collection featured a colour palette of brick, brass, tangerine, fawn, lilac, dove grey, citrus, navy, nude and rose – quite possibly one of the most perfect colour palettes I have ever laid eyes on. Vibrant, breathtaking and loosely tailored, Arnsdorf managed to retain its ultimately wearable aesthetic all the while giving node to luxe 70’s glamour. Colour blocking was evident, the highlight – a hot pink trench type jacket. And whilst most would agree that Sophie Van Den Aker closed the show perfectly in a tie-dyed draped dress raising her arms in a butterfly type pose as the cameras flashed wildly. For me it was Kate Peck who stole the show in an understated navy jumpsuit with flared leg and high-necked halter, with a daringly exposed back. Fashion perfection at its finest.
Image Credits: Jennifer Estrada
