It was the emergence of the pop-punk power queen at Aurelio Costarella, with plenty of strong silhouettes and embellishment including beading, feathers and leather.
Minis, maxis and everything in between appeared in monochrome, metallics, burnished metals and clashing colours – and it was brilliant.
As each model stepped out onto the runway, it was something unexpected, something exciting and something different.
Costarella took inspiration from the work of photographer Man Ray, and the style of his eclectic muses including Kiki de Montparnesse, Tamara de Lempika and Nancy Cunard. The result is a contemporary interpretation of 1920s and ‘30s Parisienne silhouettes.
The beautiful evening dresses were true to Costarella’s glamorous and sophisticated aesthetic, but with a punch.
The incredible workmanship of each piece was evident no matter what row you sat in, including intricate weaved thread on the bodice of a mocha coloured bronzed goddess mini dress.
The early black and white dramatic gowns were followed by a kaleidoscope of colour – hot pink, fuschia, scarlet and orange before moving into lime and blues in a kimono inspired shorts and top combo.
Feathers really stole the show, appearing as delicate shoulder adornments, textural skirts and my favourite, a red to pink gradient top and dress.
Models wore dramatic silver facial jewels that outlined their face, using Swarovski elements and directed by James Molloy for Mac, while hair was punked with a teased quiff and bold coloured streaks thanks to Lee Preston from Goldwell.
The collection was a very welcome update for modern eveningwear, with the whole look carefully considered from the contrasting hair and makeup right down to the gorgeous jewels from Sally Skoufis. Our congratulations, Mr Costarella.
