They say that a designer’s strongest garments should open and close a fashion show. It was surprising, then, to see Carl Kapp open the L’Oreal Paris Runway 3 (presented by Madison) with a considerable number of black pieces – hardly original for an Autumn/Winter collection. The designer led the catwalk with a draped, deep charcoal coat followed by a series of other black outfits. Just when you thought the entire collection was going to be comprised of hues of black and dark charcoal, Carl Kapp surprised the audience with an array of bright block colours incorporating splashes of red, crimson, hot pink, purple, primary blues and greens.
Camilla and Marc took to the catwalk next with a rusty brown dress that would set the tone for the neutral palette of colours to follow. The label showed a preference for the darker tones of the season displaying khaki and olive greens, a range of browns and even grey. Attention was given to combining different textures such as fur, denim, leopard print and leather paired with soft layers and delicate lace.
Asymmetrical design featured predominantly in Lisa Ho’s collection with one-shouldered and grecian inspired dresses marking a consistent approach to many of the pieces. Blood red was a key colour across this collection, used both solidly across one garment and in subtle touches across mixed garments. Camel and a pale mushroom brown were also key colours incorporated into the collection, as was a soft creamy-white seen across dresses, coats and skirts. But credit goes to Lisa Ho’s floor-length dresses in sheer, soft fabrics that sat gracefully on the body.
Arthur Galan took to the catwalk with bold, chunky layers. Tight black leather pants were paired with big coats in shades of black, navy and greys. Bulky knits were contrasted against structured black and white tops and dresses. Interesting combinations of texture were seen throughout including wool and feather detail at the neck, finished off with patent leather thigh-high boots.
A basic white shirt paired with suede camel trousers was the opening number for Flannel. This combination of camel and soft creamy-white featured as the key colour palette to follow in the rest of the collection. There were lots of loose fitting, sheer garments in white, cream and champagne shades. Soft cottons, chiffon and satin appeared to have been key fabrics used across the collection. A stand out piece was a cute white mini dress that crossed-over at the chest and finished with a frill detail.
Life With Bird demonstrated an articulate use of layering, draping fabric in unusual ways to create a unique look. Purple-grey dresses contrasted with metallic finishes in the forms of belts and jackets to add a touch of glamour while pants featured heavily throughout the collection. A personal favourite was a short dress with tucked sleeves in a print of brown, black and grey complemented by tiny white speckles.
Bianca Spender wowed the crowd with her attention to detail and focus on form, shape and fine tailoring. As the daughter of designer Carla Zampatti, it’s not hard to see why an appreciation for design, while bending the rules, is apparent. Bianca Spender used a stunning turquoise blue across many of her garments, a bold but welcome choice set against the dull tones so often seen in winter collections. She included sexy, revealing numbers that incorporated lace cut-out dresses, low scooped backs and sleeveless pieces. Delicate dresses in a gorgeous pale blush rose also marked a stand out choice for colour among this collection.
To close the show, Yeojin Bae did not disappoint. Staying true to her signature style of structured jackets, clean lines and cut outs, the designer demonstrated fine glamour without going over the top. A shiny shade of burgundy set the tone as the dominant colour used in the collection while mustard yellow and combined prints of this palette were present too. The final touches to garments were most impressive though, with careful attention to detail made obvious through embellished and beaded finishes. An interesting approach to smart glamour was seen towards the end of the collection in the form of sequins; this touch of crushed gold glitter added just the right amount of sparkle to any outfit.
