What defines an impressive runway show? Is it the selection of designers scheduled to showcase their latest collections all in the one sitting? Is it to be blown away by one outstanding garment that will stay with you well after you leave the event? Or is it to see how far a young designer has come in only one year? The L’Oreal Paris Runway 5 (presented by Harper’s Bazaar) managed to live up to all of these expectations while reminding us that a little glamour can go a long way.
To open the evening, the stunning Melissa George inspired the audience with a quick welcome speech. It’s not hard to see why she was chosen as the festival ambassador; her angelic beauty and graceful poise captivated the crowd as she thanked sponsors and kicked off the show. Willow lead the runway, opening with a black and grey draped dress. The collection incorporated lots of grey and black with splashes of canary yellow and demonstrated different ways fabric could be ruched and tucked to create shape.
Scanlan & Theodore adopted a work-wear inspired collection and opened with a sleeveless knit top paired with a high-waist pencil skirt. The palette of colours used throughout was predominately dark and included a range of black, navy, olive and browns. Knitwear and ribbed jersey were commonly seen across garments as was wool and the occasional leather jacket. The collection did show a leaning towards strong lines, cut out shapely pieces and fabric that crossed-over the body to create a sophisticated yet feminine look.
It’s always difficult to predict how much an upcoming designer is going to impress. So it was interesting to see how far Dion Lee had come only a year after winning the designer award. Sticking true to his signature style, the opening piece was a basic white number that showed an unconventional take on the classic shirt. This was followed by structured layers, stencil-like cut out pieces and fabric wrapped around the bodice of dresses. The designer didn’t by any means push the boundaries or surprise with any striking pieces; garments reflected the signature Dion Lee style we have become familiar with. The designer did however, create a more feminine collection compared to what has been done in the past with an array of sensual red and crimson used across many of his garments.
It was all about the leopard print for Jayson Brunsdon’s collection. Leopard print was seen across dresses and tops, and teamed with solid black items and fur for variation. But the stronger pieces came in the form of striking orange and hot pink dresses finished with a thin black belt or trimming to create contrast. Also key was a shiny white lace mini dress and an elegant white long sleeved dress with a discreet opening at the chest finished with a touch of shimmer.
Sharp shoulders and sheer, shiny fabrics set the futuristic theme for Aurelio Costarella. Tailored leather jackets with a frilled backing offered a strong look with a touch of style. The consideration for texture across this collection was incredible – from fur to PVC-like leather, and oversized layered plastic sequins, the combination of different textures impressed. Dark brown was a key colour seen across jackets, dresses and pants and a focus on the waist directed attention to the female form.
There is only one word that can be used to describe Collette Dinnigan’s collection: beautiful. Making a grand entrance was a divine lacy dress with that had a beige lining with intricate black lace layered over the top. The dresses that followed seemed inspired by 1950s glamour with circle skirts in soft tulle, capped sleeves and boat neck dresses setting the tone of the collection. The attention to detail was apparent; dresses were finished with intricate black lace while tiny black hand-stitched beads caught the light to create shimmer. By far, this was the stand-out collection of the evening as Collette Dinnigan proved that she could maintain her signature style while inventing a completely new look. This feminine array of dresses showed that the designer had an acute understanding of how to create a garment that looks elegant and sophisticated while highlighting an appreciation for the feminine form. Each piece equally inspired and captivated the audience as it showed how garments can be both attractive and indulgent. The closing piece for this collection was a gorgeous floor-length butter cream dress with a full tulle skirt finished with a spray of black lace detail across the front and delicate black spaghetti straps.
Toni Maticevski closed the show and presented interesting layers with heavy embellishments. Detail at the shoulder in the form of scrunched fabric was seen paired with high waist, knee-length skirts. Black was teamed with champagne and off-white tones while ruffles and rouching were complemented with sequin metallic shine. A sophisticated take on the blazer jacket formed a key look across the collection as did boat necks, sleeveless tops and dresses, and sheer floor length dresses. The final piece was a left-of-field, over the top white floor-length circle skirt and matching capelet. The piece personally disappointed as it lacked an emphasis on the waist, arms and chest, retracting from the female figure.
