Acne can be incredibly frustrating and for many, the struggle continues even after breakouts clear up. It’s true, acne scarring is quite common – in fact, 1 in 5 people with acne experience it. If you’re part of this group, we have good news – with the right skincare formulas, you can finally see your scars fade away. So, what makes the ‘right’ skincare formula for acne scars?
Retinoids
Retinoids are a form of vitamin A, often hailed as a gold standard for acne and scar treatment. They work by increasing skin cell turnover and encouraging your skin to shed its old, damaged layers, making way for new, healthier skin.
Note that retinoids are only available through a health practitioner, as they are the strongest form of vitamin A. Another option that is available over the counter, though, is retinol. Now, retinol doesn’t work straight away when applied to the skin – it needs to be converted into its active form, which means it is weaker than retinoids. That being said, they’re still incredibly effective, especially for sensitive skin types!
If you’re new to retinoids, be sure to start slow and listen to your skin, as they can cause dryness or irritation. Consider using the ‘sandwich’ method as well, where you apply moisturiser 10 minutes before and 10 minutes after your retinoid (or retinol) product, as a way to nourish the skin.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is another powerhouse in skincare, known for its brightening and collagen-boosting abilities. It is a potent antioxidant that not only protects your skin from environmental damage but also aids in the repair of scarred tissue.
By inhibiting melanin production, vitamin C helps to treat hyperpigmentation, which includes acne scars. It also promotes collagen synthesis, which can help with the appearance of atrophic scars (the kind that look like indentations on your skin).
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, otherwise known as vitamin B3, offers a wide range of skincare benefits, especially for those with acne-prone skin. Known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, it helps to minimise the redness and irritation that often come with acne scars.
Niacinamide improves skin elasticity, strengthens the skin barrier, and evens out your skin tone, making it particularly effective for fading post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It also increases collagen production, which we already know helps to reduce the appearance of acne scars.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
AHAs – think glycolic, lactic and citric acid – are exfoliating acids that gently remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, improving both the texture and tone of your skin over time.
Keep in mind that AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so you should always pair them with SPF during the day. It’s also a good idea to start with a lower concentration – say 5% – and gradually increase it as your skin builds tolerance.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid, a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA), is a go-to for treating acne itself, but its benefits extend to scar removal. Unlike AHAs, which work on the outer layers of the skin, salicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores, helping to clear them out and prevent future breakouts.
This skincare superstar has anti-inflammatory properties, which help reduce redness and swelling; and it also lightly exfoliates the skin, improving the overall appearance of scars and dark spots.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a lesser-known but highly effective ingredient for treating both acne and the scars it leaves behind. It is particularly effective for fading post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, by inhibiting melanin production, promoting cell turnover, and in turn helping to even out the skin tone.
Azelaic acid is generally gentle (which is great if your skin is sensitive!) and can be used alongside other active ingredients like retinoids or niacinamide. We should mention that although azelaic acid starts working as soon as you apply it, you likely won’t see results until you’re a month or so into your treatment – so be patient!
