Tucked away near the Sydney Aquarium is a bar with verandah-like floorboards, blue trimmings, a running TAB, quintessential suburban red-topped bar stools, and a polite view of Cockle Bay Wharf. The place seems run-of-the-mill, a piece of ‘Australian locale’ iconography preserved above souvenir shops and a murky ocean. But it’s the kind of book you can’t judge by its cover, there’s a hint of contemporary amidst the outdoor lounges, and a scan of the menu hints at the delicious appeal of Helm Bar.
While the staff are quick to recommend a wine from their solid list, to match any of their dishes, it head chef, Frederick Booms’, food that prevails most impressive: bottomless buckets of steamed Australian black mussels in moreish broths of white wine, thai and lemongrass, or gruyere, or a 250gm black Angus sirloin – even a simple Catch of the Day proffers a satiating scent, and a satisfying dine.
Booms keeps things close to home, focusing on seafood and steak; two simple Aussie staples. Furthermore, Helm’s ‘Light Meals’ menu is not only ridiculously reasonable in price, but features an extensive selection of dishes that far outdo any stock-standard, rakish-looking entrée; Wagyu burgers, antipasto platters, or a vegetarian tart, rather, are suggested as a humble nibble.
Helm’s seafood paella lined the palette with a hint of lemon zest, which lifted a usually heavy meal beautifully. The dish wasn’t frugally decorated with a token prawn, either. Rather, each spoonful promised a wealth of scallops, prawns, chorizo, mussels and baby octopus. If you’re eyeing off the particularly delicious thai-style mussels, however, watch for the split sticks of lemongrass strewn amidst your pot. While the ingredient proves how fresh Helm’s produce is, indulging too rapidly can result in pulling stringy residue from between your lips.
If you’re looking for a weekend lunch on the wharf, it’s worth heading to the quiet stairway to Helm sitting close by the Aquarium, ordering one of their Australian white wines, and chowing down on some serious bistro food.
Helm Bar is open 7 days a week. For more information, head to www.helmbar.com.au or phone 02 9290 1571.
Helm Bar is located Aquarium Wharf, Wheat Road, Darling Harbour, NSW.